Highs and Lows.

The past few weeks since I returned from Zanzibar have been, how should I say, eventful. Upon returning back, I slipped right back into work, going out and researching different areas. I ran across a group of refugees again, and heard that there situation has gotten worse since I saw them last. They are now having problems with food, and have lost 6 people in the last 3 weeks to starvation. I reported them to the UN to try and get some food in for them, and I'm going to check on them again this week. I plan to take a nurse with me to evaluate them, and see just how malnourished they are. Not far from that village, we heard reports that an NGO's vehicle ran over an anti-tank land mine. I was heading in that direction the next day and saw it. The anti-tank mine was planted in front of a school, sometime during the war. The vehicle that ran over it belonged to an organization that helps with education in Sudan. The driver and his passenger were leaving the school when they detonated it. Only the passenger survived. It was a bit eerie to stand in front of what I couldn't even recognize, was a truck. I could see blood on the seats, and there was a huge whole in the ground from where the mine exploded. It was quite the reminder to stay on the roads. There are mines all over that haven't been discovered yet. We have a few different organizations that devote their days to searching, finding, and removing land mines.
A similar discovery was made a while back at a site where Samaritan's Purse was planning to build a basketball court. Three RPG's (rocket propelled grenades) were discovered, undetonated in a tree right beside the primary school here in Yei. They were removed right before the basketball court was dedicated this past Saturday, which brings me to my high for this week, among all these lows.
Joe Wilson, who left for good on Sunday had come up with the idea to build a court for the kids here in Yei. Luckily he got it finished in time to dedicate it on Saturday, and be able to play basketball with the kids before he left. It was a great way to end an otherwise rough week. We had a blast. It's pretty awesome to have about thirty kids between 4 and 14 chasing you around the court trying to steal the ball from you. We were out there literally all day with those kids, it was a great way to just enjoy being in Sudan with nothing to worry about for a few hours. I don't have anything intellectual to add to this. I haven't connected the dots of why the things I've experienced these past couple weeks were significant. But despite the lows I had, I still know that I'm "home" here. Let's see what this week has in store.

Let it rain, let it rain.

So it's the rainy season here, which is an understatement. For the deep south of Sudan, it doesn't just mean water falling from the sky. Rain makes everything so pretty and green but it also causes problems along the way. For one the roads become somewhat like driving on. . . . . .I don't know. . . . . . Vaseline? Especially on a quad (sorry a four wheeler, I'm still southern) the word "steering" doesn't exist. It's more like you are just moving in a direction and you hope you continue that way. The rain can also create a bit of a problem for my work, doing research, in that no one will show up to the appointments if it's raining. Since virtually no one owns a car here, and for some reason everyone is terrified of rain, when it does rain life seems to stop in Sudan. This is just one of many things that have become part of my everyday life, and I guess in a way, part of who I am.
This week has involved a lot of traveling back and forth for me, but I can't complain. Riding around in the bush here on a four wheeler is like every guy's dream come true. Back in the day we used to look for cool and adventurous places to take our four wheelers, especially where there's lots of mud, and now everyday on the road is one of those places I used to dream of. I'm learning to find huge appreciations in small things. For me, it's made my life simple and I love that about me right now. I've seen some bad things and heard some even worse stories, but there are those times when something small happens and you hear that voice in your soul say, "This is what it's all about."
Let me give you a couple examples. Just the other day I was driving back to Yei from an assessment in the bush and as always I was passing by many people walking, riding bicycles, motorbikes etc. You always see kids along the road, and they usually just stare in amazement and slowly lift their hand to wave. The sight of a white person on this strange looking thing that's not a motor bike, and it's not a car, baffles them. I always try to appreciate seeing the children here, because I know one day when/if I leave Sudan I will miss seeing their bright smiles. As I approached a group of children I noticed right away that they had stopped dead in their tracks along the muddy road to see just what the heck was coming at them. As I got closer I noticed one little boy, probably 8 or 9 years old laughing. He threw his hand up as if it might be the last time he got a chance to wave. As soon as I waved back he began jumping up and down and laughing like I had just made him the happiest he would ever be in his life. This entire galaxy could not contain his excitement. I don't think I've smiled that wide ever in my life. I wanted so badly to stop and just hang out with those kids for a while. The sight of me and that I had acknowledged him had made his entire day. But his reaction to me made my entire time here. For the next several kilometers of my drive, with Dave Matthews playing on my IPod, I was as content as a person could be. The road sucked and so did getting sun burned, but that little kid, who I'll probably never see again had an impact on me. I don't know his name, or even what village he's from, but his smiling face, and him jumping up and down, is permanently etched in my mind.
Example two happened today at one of my assessments. I was greeted warmly by roughly 80 people or so singing and dancing. The assessment went very well, and I felt great about the meeting. As it usually happens, we were presented with a soda, and a bottle of water. The village I was in is very deep in the bush, so I know the trip to get the soda and water was probably taken yesterday or the day before, just so me and my translator could have a soda. As we wrapped up the assessment I opened my water and began to drink it while I made small talk in broken Arabic with the pastor. As normal everyone in the congregation had their eyes locked on me, because I am so different looking basically. I noticed a small boy near the front that looked so freakin' cool. Like that kid is going to be the man when he gets older. He was probably around 5. I feel a bit shameful saying this, but up until now I've never done what I decided to do. I said to myself, ya know what, I'm gonna give that kid my soda. I had my translator call him up to me and he began to make his way up to the front where I was sitting. He seemed a bit nervous and hesitant, but as he reached my translator told him in Arabic what I wanted to give him. He lit up like a Christmas tree. As I opened the soda (Mirinda, which is my favorite drink in Africa) and handed it to him, he strutted back to his seat like he had just won a Grammy. I noticed him looking at all of the other kids with a look on his face as to say, "Yeah, check me out, the white man gave me a soda, you all know you're jealous." It was priceless, and yet another person God has used to show himself to me. I think God hides himself in the innocence of children hoping that we will see it. Usually we don't, we have too much going on and the children are always pushed to the side at a function like the one we had today. But on the road the other day, and under those enormous mango trees where that church meets, I caught a glimpse of God in those children.

Zanzibar the Door Katie!

............Ahhhh, Zanzibar. The most amazing place on earth. . . . . so far. Well my trip started out with an hour and a half flight from Nairobi, Kenya straight onto the Island. We (Matt and I) made our way to the hotel where we were staying in Stone Town and struck out to find FOOD! We ate at Mercury's the first night. Side note, Freddy Mercury the lead singer of queen was born in Zanzibar, so there's tons of Mercury's this and Mercury's that. We spent a couple days in stone town looking around in the market and checking out the local scene there. After that, we took a shared taxi up to Nungwi where we spent the rest of our trip. Nungwi is at the northern tip of the island. Our room, at Union Beach, was only feet from where the Indian Ocean washes up on shore. It was a perfect spot to do some relaxing. We met several different people (mainly Europeans) who were traveling and had come to Zanzibar. Many divers go there to dive in the Indian Ocean. The little bungalo we stayed in is partly owned and operated by Dumi. Dumi is one of the coolest guys I've ever met. Everyone in Zanzibar is so layed back, they realize they live in paradise. So each night Dumi and his crew would set up the dinner tables right on the beach and we would have grilled seafood that was usually caught the same day. I tore it up! Crab, lobster, red snapper, white snapper, dorado, and the best calamari you've ever had!
Tanzania is predominantly Muslim, and we happened to plan our little vacation right in the middle of Ramadan. We weren't affected by it that much though, being in the tourist section everything carries on as normal. Ramadan is a holiday celebrated every year, and it lasts for a month. The practicing Muslims fast all day up until 6:30 pm. No food or water, they can work their job, but can't have any leisure activities. So in some parts of the market you would have to respect the tradition and not eat or drink in public, but on the beach everything stays open and you are free to do what you want.
Before we went up to Nungwi we met Nancy, who joined us on our way up and tagged along with us for a few days before she headed back to the mainland. She was from the U.S. and was taking three months to travel through out Africa. Among many Europeans, we also met Ollie who was there to dive the Indian Ocean. He also climbed Mount Kilimanjaro which is a huge feat. While at Kilimanjaro he had an opportunity to volunteer at an orphanage and told us many stories about that.
Our last two days there, we met Latel who is from Israel. She was about our age and had come to Zanzibar for two weeks of vacation. We met her while on a snorkeling trip. There are many smaller Islands around the main island, and we were able to go snorkel on the reef of one of those Islands. It was my first time, but quite an experience. All the different colors of fish blew my mind. And then being able to swim in with a whole school of fish, and they just swim right along side of you like you belong in the pack. It was awesome. When we finished snorkeling, the guides took us to the beach where they had prepared lunch, fresh fish, fruits, and bread. I highly recommend you go snorkeling the next time you're off the coast of Tanzania. If things go as planned, I'll be going back in November. I know there's tons of places to see in Africa, but whatever, I'm going back. Not that much about Zanzibar is bad.
Speaking of which, the one thing that will drive you crazy is the hagglers! People come up to you on the beach, in restaurants, on the street, everywhere, asking you to buy this or look at this. It's usually hand made jewelry or wood carvings, the stuff that you normally buy when you visit a place like Zanzibar, but it gets annoying constantly having to tell people, "No, I don't want anything, I'm ok." Even when you're in the market it's the same, and you have to haggle on prices for everything! That's really the only thing that's bad about being there though. I mean every night you see a beautiful sunset, eat great food, and it's all really cheap.
For example, you can get an hour long professional massage for about $10. I did take advantage of that a few times. . . . . . ok everyday, and even two some days, it was amazing. I've never been somewhere that I could get up, have breakfast, walk on the beach, get a massage, take a nap, have lunch, go swimming, get another massage, freshen up, have dinner and then chill with Dumi for hours and just talk, all for around $60 a day including what it cost for the room each night. So yes, Zanzibar was ok. I'm not trying to make you all jealous or anything. . . . . . but you should be.